Thursday, June 19, 2008

Warsaw, Żelazowa Wola, & the heart of Chopin

Coming from Prague, which seems to be the most popular city in Europe recently, I arrived happily in Warsaw despite another backpackers' warning that "Warsaw wasn't very fun." Since the main Chopin museum in Warsaw is under renovation for the next couple of years, I did the next best thing and visited an old apartment that he used to live in.

The apartment was in a building occupied by art classes of the local university. I had to pass through rooms and hallways full of paintings to find Chopin's small apartment on the top floor in far corner. The room was rather empty, except for an elegant grand piano and a modest set of table and chairs. I think I awoke the lady on duty when I entered the room. I asked if I could take photographs and sadly, she said they were not allowed. She was seated next to a cd player so I asked if it was Chopin music. She happily turned it on for me and I enjoyed the music while I looked at every detail the room had to offer. I had rushed over to see the apartment because it closed to the public at 2; seeing now that it was barely past noon I decided I would take as long as I could. After reading the descriptions on every painting and examining them as closely as I could, I decided to sit down and listen to the Chopin music from the cd player. I found myself very relaxed, but decided it may be best if I was on my way.

The next stop was the Church of the Holy Cross. Chopin requested that after his death he wanted his heart to be removed from his body because he had a fear of being buried alive. His requests were carried out, and his sister took his heart in an urn where it was sealed in a pillar in the church. An inscription on a plaque inside the church has the verse from Matthew 6 v. 21: "For where your treasure is, there your heart will be also."



After that, I went out to Żelazowa Wola, the birthplace of Chopin. I barely made it in time. I had to take the train and then a bus and then I ran as soon as I got off the bus. I toured the house, I was the last one they let in. It was a very cozy house, and I learned that Chopin concerts are held there in the summer twice every Sunday. The gift shop just outside the house closed after I was done touring the house. I really wanted to buy a Chopin post card or two, but oh well. So, I took some pictures through the windows.

How do they compare? I'd say I'm a little tanner.



The final thing for the day was to see a Chopin monument in a park. This is another place where you can hear Chopin concerts on Sundays. I happened to stumble upon another monument of composer I like, Ignacy Jan Paderewski. If you know me, you must recognize Paderewski's Minuet in G because it has been overplayed by me for the past 5... no, 8 years. Wow, I am getting old. Anyway, I enjoyed Warsaw. I would love to go back in two years when they have the Chopin Contest and it will be Chopin's 200th birthday.Chopin's birthplace